Discussion:
[Arm-netbook] SPI-based LCDs, 3D printing, RISC-V
Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
2017-04-27 10:50:39 UTC
Permalink
ok so a quick status update:

* Frida, in Shenzhen, have a customer currently ordering their 2.8in
FRD280J3703D SPI-based LCD. this means it's possible to place an
order for less than the normal MOQ of 1,000 so we go with that one for
the 15in laptop.

* i calculated that for the microdesktop i have an ENTIRE MONTH of
3d-printing to do, and a YEAR for the laptop. there's an update going
out about this soon but basically i need help. ideas or actual
practical help.

* i'm investigating RISC-V *long-term*, i will start a separate thread
about this (immediately after writing this) so am reaching out to
various people to see who's interested.

l.

---
crowd-funded eco-conscious hardware: https://www.crowdsupply.com/eoma68

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Adam Van Ymeren
2017-04-27 11:48:48 UTC
Permalink
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
* Frida, in Shenzhen, have a customer currently ordering their 2.8in
FRD280J3703D SPI-based LCD. this means it's possible to place an
order for less than the normal MOQ of 1,000 so we go with that one for
the 15in laptop.
* i calculated that for the microdesktop i have an ENTIRE MONTH of
3d-printing to do, and a YEAR for the laptop. there's an update going
out about this soon but basically i need help. ideas or actual
practical help.
Are there companies that you could hire to do the bulk of the 3d printing? Any idea what the quality and/or cost would be?

Is there any feasibility of producing the laptop parts via injection molding, but preserving the design in a way that end users could still print replacement parts? Seems like this would require a large redesign investment but could save time and money manufacturing.
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
* i'm investigating RISC-V *long-term*, i will start a separate thread
about this (immediately after writing this) so am reaching out to
various people to see who's interested.
l.
---
crowd-funded eco-conscious hardware: https://www.crowdsupply.com/eoma68
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Hrvoje Lasic
2017-04-27 11:54:37 UTC
Permalink
Hi Luke,

How many pcs you have to print/do each?
what is your budget?
Have you consider to do plastic molds?
Have you consider to do molds from aluminum that are lower priced but could
stand lower number of shots (like 10k)? Silicon molds?
Where you need to produce it?

Regards,
Hrvoje
On April 27, 2017 6:50:39 AM EDT, Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton <
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
* Frida, in Shenzhen, have a customer currently ordering their 2.8in
FRD280J3703D SPI-based LCD. this means it's possible to place an
order for less than the normal MOQ of 1,000 so we go with that one for
the 15in laptop.
* i calculated that for the microdesktop i have an ENTIRE MONTH of
3d-printing to do, and a YEAR for the laptop. there's an update going
out about this soon but basically i need help. ideas or actual
practical help.
Are there companies that you could hire to do the bulk of the 3d
printing? Any idea what the quality and/or cost would be?
Is there any feasibility of producing the laptop parts via injection
molding, but preserving the design in a way that end users could still
print replacement parts? Seems like this would require a large redesign
investment but could save time and money manufacturing.
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
* i'm investigating RISC-V *long-term*, i will start a separate thread
about this (immediately after writing this) so am reaching out to
various people to see who's interested.
l.
---
crowd-funded eco-conscious hardware: https://www.crowdsupply.com/eoma68
_______________________________________________
http://lists.phcomp.co.uk/mailman/listinfo/arm-netbook
_______________________________________________
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Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
2017-04-27 12:57:51 UTC
Permalink
Post by Hrvoje Lasic
Hi Luke,
How many pcs you have to print/do each?
2000 of the 12x20x24 microdesktop corners

150 of the *THIRTY FIVE* separate parts of the laptop. some are
small but at least 10 of them are 230mm long and around 12mm high.
their shapes are.. "exotic" and quite challenging to 3D-print.
Post by Hrvoje Lasic
what is your budget?
about... $5k maybe $10k.
Post by Hrvoje Lasic
Have you consider to do plastic molds?
yes. not really practical.
Post by Hrvoje Lasic
Have you consider to do molds from aluminum that are lower priced but could
stand lower number of shots (like 10k)? Silicon molds?
the numbers for this initial run just aren't worth it.
Post by Hrvoje Lasic
Where you need to produce it?
preferably here in S.E. Asia so i can QA the parts, but if there were
people i could trust to QA the parts it could be distributed.

l.

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Hrvoje Lasic
2017-04-27 14:05:49 UTC
Permalink
For 2000 pcs maybe it make sense, if ti is really small part you can try

for 150 sets and 35 parts each no big chance for molding to make sense. It
would be too expensive.
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
Post by Hrvoje Lasic
Hi Luke,
How many pcs you have to print/do each?
2000 of the 12x20x24 microdesktop corners
150 of the *THIRTY FIVE* separate parts of the laptop. some are
small but at least 10 of them are 230mm long and around 12mm high.
their shapes are.. "exotic" and quite challenging to 3D-print.
Post by Hrvoje Lasic
what is your budget?
about... $5k maybe $10k.
Post by Hrvoje Lasic
Have you consider to do plastic molds?
yes. not really practical.
Post by Hrvoje Lasic
Have you consider to do molds from aluminum that are lower priced but
could
Post by Hrvoje Lasic
stand lower number of shots (like 10k)? Silicon molds?
the numbers for this initial run just aren't worth it.
Post by Hrvoje Lasic
Where you need to produce it?
preferably here in S.E. Asia so i can QA the parts, but if there were
people i could trust to QA the parts it could be distributed.
l.
_______________________________________________
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Christian Kellermann
2017-04-27 12:00:16 UTC
Permalink
Post by Adam Van Ymeren
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
* Frida, in Shenzhen, have a customer currently ordering their 2.8in
FRD280J3703D SPI-based LCD. this means it's possible to place an
order for less than the normal MOQ of 1,000 so we go with that one for
the 15in laptop.
* i calculated that for the microdesktop i have an ENTIRE MONTH of
3d-printing to do, and a YEAR for the laptop. there's an update going
out about this soon but basically i need help. ideas or actual
practical help.
Are there companies that you could hire to do the bulk of the 3d printing? Any idea what the quality and/or cost would be?
Is there any feasibility of producing the laptop parts via injection molding, but preserving the design in a way that end users could still print replacement parts? Seems like this would require a large redesign investment but could save time and money manufacturing.
Injection molds are magnitudes more expensive to make, so it would be
an even higher barrier of entry.

As the current issue is time in producing them I would also scratch
the printed parts order myself, maybe in exchange for a discount on
future designs done by Luke and print them myself. People with access
to a maker lab could consider doing the same...

I am not capable to promise good quality printing for 3rd parties as I
have been starting getting into this for a rather short while now...

I think decentralisation and printing on demand is the only sensible
way to do this unless one of the bigger companies like Shapeways jump
aboard, almost likely adding additional costs on top...

my 2 cents...

--
May you be peaceful, may you live in safety, may you be free from
suffering, and may you live with ease.

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Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
2017-04-27 13:23:40 UTC
Permalink
On Thu, Apr 27, 2017 at 1:00 PM, Christian Kellermann
Post by Christian Kellermann
As the current issue is time in producing them I would also scratch
the printed parts order myself, maybe in exchange for a discount on
future designs done by Luke and print them myself. People with access
to a maker lab could consider doing the same...
I am not capable to promise good quality printing for 3rd parties as I
have been starting getting into this for a rather short while now...
well, a 200x200 basic reprap will do the job, with a 0.4mm nozzle and
a layer height of between 0.15 and 0.2mm is absolutely fine. it's not
hugely difficult. i've just ordered this ($140!!) 3D printer from a
taobao seller, it's arriving in a couple of days:

https://world.taobao.com/item/526287577504.htm

now, at $140 i am quite happy to get up to 10 of those (if the first
one checks out fine) - it looks *really* sturdy: 20x20 aluminium
box-section: my only concern about rigidity being that it uses
L-brackets which go *into* the frame rather than triangle-corners
which are bolted outside and lock the box-section absolutely solid.
but, we'll see what happens.

also it looks like it has a clone of the E3Dv6 hot-end (which is
really good), it has trapezoidal z-axis lead screws with proper brass
nuts, borosilicate glass plate (to be confirmed).

the one thing i have told the guy (and he's happy to give a RMB 70
discount): i do NOT want the f*****-s***-for-brains RAMPS 1.4
controller. if you're familiar with 3D printing for f***'s sake STAY
AWAY from ANYTHING that uses the brain-dead "Polulu" driver "modules".
RAMPS, RUMBA, Lerdge, Megatronics - just don't f*****g well do it.

the reason is really really simple: those QFN ICs are designed
SPECIFICALLY, as outlined CLEARLY IN THE DATASHEET, for the heat to be
dissipated THROUGH THE PCB. there is a ceramic insulator on the TOP
OF THE CHIP which ACTIVELY PREVENTS HEAT DISSIPATING THROUGH THE TOP.
if you put a heat sink on top of the chip it does... nothing.

now, when the first reprap was created, in order to save time and
development cost they bought some PROTOTYPING boards with the stepper
drivers pre-mounted, which came with SPECIFIC instructions "under no
circumstances use these in production".

so what happens?

well, they (a) burn out (b) overheat (c) stop working for a couple of
seconds at a time in the middle of a print...

... you get the general idea.

so anyway i ordered a Melzi 2.0 from here:

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/Melzi-board/1757194_500507171.html

and it turns out that on the reprap wiki there's a mod to them which
allows for the connection of a BT UART. it would have been handy if
those pins had been brought out on a header but hey, what's wrong with
a bit of soldering.

if you don't want to do soldering then you can just put the Melzi 2.0
into "auto-load" mode, drop a file in a FAT32 filesystem on a MicroSD
card and power it up.

i like the Melzi 2. it's simple, relatively low-cost compared to some
of the other options, no-nonsense and straightforward.

l.

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Se
Hrvoje Lasic
2017-04-27 14:17:27 UTC
Permalink
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
On Thu, Apr 27, 2017 at 1:00 PM, Christian Kellermann
Post by Christian Kellermann
As the current issue is time in producing them I would also scratch
the printed parts order myself, maybe in exchange for a discount on
future designs done by Luke and print them myself. People with access
to a maker lab could consider doing the same...
I am not capable to promise good quality printing for 3rd parties as I
have been starting getting into this for a rather short while now...
well, a 200x200 basic reprap will do the job, with a 0.4mm nozzle and
a layer height of between 0.15 and 0.2mm is absolutely fine. it's not
hugely difficult. i've just ordered this ($140!!) 3D printer from a
https://world.taobao.com/item/526287577504.htm
now, at $140 i am quite happy to get up to 10 of those (if the first
one checks out fine) - it looks *really* sturdy: 20x20 aluminium
box-section: my only concern about rigidity being that it uses
L-brackets which go *into* the frame rather than triangle-corners
which are bolted outside and lock the box-section absolutely solid.
but, we'll see what happens.
also it looks like it has a clone of the E3Dv6 hot-end (which is
really good), it has trapezoidal z-axis lead screws with proper brass
nuts, borosilicate glass plate (to be confirmed).
the one thing i have told the guy (and he's happy to give a RMB 70
discount): i do NOT want the f*****-s***-for-brains RAMPS 1.4
controller. if you're familiar with 3D printing for f***'s sake STAY
AWAY from ANYTHING that uses the brain-dead "Polulu" driver "modules".
RAMPS, RUMBA, Lerdge, Megatronics - just don't f*****g well do it.
the reason is really really simple: those QFN ICs are designed
SPECIFICALLY, as outlined CLEARLY IN THE DATASHEET, for the heat to be
dissipated THROUGH THE PCB. there is a ceramic insulator on the TOP
OF THE CHIP which ACTIVELY PREVENTS HEAT DISSIPATING THROUGH THE TOP.
if you put a heat sink on top of the chip it does... nothing.
now, when the first reprap was created, in order to save time and
development cost they bought some PROTOTYPING boards with the stepper
drivers pre-mounted, which came with SPECIFIC instructions "under no
circumstances use these in production".
so what happens?
well, they (a) burn out (b) overheat (c) stop working for a couple of
seconds at a time in the middle of a print...
... you get the general idea.
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/Melzi-board/1757194_500507171.html
and it turns out that on the reprap wiki there's a mod to them which
allows for the connection of a BT UART. it would have been handy if
those pins had been brought out on a header but hey, what's wrong with
a bit of soldering.
if you don't want to do soldering then you can just put the Melzi 2.0
into "auto-load" mode, drop a file in a FAT32 filesystem on a MicroSD
card and power it up.
i like the Melzi 2. it's simple, relatively low-cost compared to some
of the other options, no-nonsense and straightforward.
l.
this 3d printer looks ok, can you update on quality when available?
Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
2017-04-27 14:23:50 UTC
Permalink
Post by Hrvoje Lasic
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
https://world.taobao.com/item/526287577504.htm
this 3d printer looks ok, can you update on quality when available?
sure. i usually run these at 200mm/s which is a lot of fun - 4x what
they're "rated" at.

l.

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Bluey
2017-04-27 15:10:52 UTC
Permalink
Hi All,

For what it’s worth, I’d like to thank all of you involved for taking on this important project.

I started subscribing to this list just a few days ago so please forgive me if specific design requirements/parameters have already been decided for the EOMA computer and my comments are not germane. I’m also not across which manufacturing skills, tools, and facilities are available within or to the group.

With the above said, the best option to my mind would be to 3D print and finish high-quality moulds (in titanium or steel) for use in stamping out aluminium case components from sheet metal. I see modular design to be important primarily for the internal component selection and layout inside the laptop body rather than for the body itself, which—to my mind—should be designed for longevity, strength, rigidity, and good looks (important for attracting more people to buy the product over time).

Lost-wax metal casting has also been effectively demonstrated with 3D-printed thermoplastic plastics but to me that seems like it might be a less environmentally friendly option (as compared to the above) despite possible reuse of the lost wax (the plastic). However, it might be cheaper and a more-viable option for such small manufacturing runs.

However, if the decision is made to go with plastic, and assuming a redesign is a possibility, one option would be to 3D-print the injection mould in metal (such as titanium) using a specialist 3D-printing service. The mould could then be used in a standard injection-mould machine.

With regard to the choice of material, I would suggest the following order of preference: 1) aluminium (recycled if possible), 2) titanium, 3) sustainably grown biological material, 4) plastic. Aluminium and titanium are highly recyclable (aluminium almost infinitely so <http://recycling.world-aluminium.org/review/sustainability.html>) while (non-biodegradable) recycled plastic almost always requires additional plastic feedstocks—resulting in perpetual growth of plastic waste.

It can be tricky getting truely environmentally friendly biological materials (such as bamboo) from non-western countries. The reason is that the demand for the materials often leads to deforestation of native forests in order to grow the bamboo, palm trees, etc. Sourcing materials (such as sustainably grown hemp, flax, or timber) from the few countries that have strong regulatory schemes would be ideal but typically comes with commensurately higher costs. Also, biological materials are not likely to be well suited to the material specifications needed for a laptop chassis. Note, too, that engineered products (like bamboo floorboards) often incorporate a large percentage of some pretty nasty glues.

My proposed ordered list above discounts the carbon-intensity of materials manufacturing, as well as the damage caused from the mining process, but working out such things is extremely complex and requires detailed audits of source material, material suppliers, and processing manufacturers. It also changes from country to country and from region to region within certain countries. For this project, I think it would be necessary to look at long-term material use and reuse. Aluminium, although requiring lots of (possibly dirty) energy to produce, is also an exceptional store of energy due to its capacity for perpetual recycling. It should also meet the fit, finish, and strength attributes required for the laptop housing.


Some possibly useful resources:

Professional 3D printing companies:

http://www.shapeways.com <http://www.shapeways.com/>
http://i.materialise.com <http://i.materialise.com/>

https://www.sculpteo.com/en/ <https://www.sculpteo.com/en/>

http://3dprinterhub.com/3d-printer-services/ <http://3dprinterhub.com/3d-printer-services/> (Comparison service for Shapeways, imaterialise, and Sculpteo)

https://voodoomfg.com/ <https://voodoomfg.com/> (Volume 3D-printing an option.)

<http://www.shapeways.com/>http://www.ponoko.com/3d-printing <https://www.ponoko.com/3d-printing> (Volume 3D-printing and laser cutting an option. Laser cutting and metal forming of aluminium (or Al alloy) sheet metal might allow for the rapid creation of cheap modular chassis components.

https://www.quora.com/Who-are-Shapeways-competitors <https://www.quora.com/Who-are-Shapeways-competitors> (A discussion of Shapeways and some of its competitors.)

Cheers,

Bluey

P.S. Without getting into the complicated world of finite element analysis and minimising points of high strain in the design, I would recommend well-rounded internal edges wherever possible if/when designing a chassis case. This will reduce high stress concentration in those areas. The sharper an edge or corner (e.g., on a rectangular hole) the higher the stress concentration in the material will be at that location.
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
Post by Hrvoje Lasic
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
https://world.taobao.com/item/526287577504.htm
this 3d printer looks ok, can you update on quality when available?
sure. i usually run these at 200mm/s which is a lot of fun - 4x what
they're "rated" at.
l.
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John Luke Gibson
2017-04-28 07:07:41 UTC
Permalink
Post by Bluey
Hi All,
For what it’s worth, I’d like to thank all of you involved for taking on
this important project.
I started subscribing to this list just a few days ago so please forgive me
if specific design requirements/parameters have already been decided for the
EOMA computer and my comments are not germane. I’m also not across which
manufacturing skills, tools, and facilities are available within or to the
group.
With the above said, the best option to my mind would be to 3D print and
finish high-quality moulds (in titanium or steel) for use in stamping out
aluminium case components from sheet metal. I see modular design to be
important primarily for the internal component selection and layout inside
the laptop body rather than for the body itself, which—to my mind—should be
designed for longevity, strength, rigidity, and good looks (important for
attracting more people to buy the product over time).
Lost-wax metal casting has also been effectively demonstrated with
3D-printed thermoplastic plastics but to me that seems like it might be a
less environmentally friendly option (as compared to the above) despite
possible reuse of the lost wax (the plastic). However, it might be cheaper
and a more-viable option for such small manufacturing runs.
However, if the decision is made to go with plastic, and assuming a redesign
is a possibility, one option would be to 3D-print the injection mould in
metal (such as titanium) using a specialist 3D-printing service. The mould
could then be used in a standard injection-mould machine.
With regard to the choice of material, I would suggest the following order
of preference: 1) aluminium (recycled if possible), 2) titanium, 3)
sustainably grown biological material, 4) plastic. Aluminium and titanium
are highly recyclable (aluminium almost infinitely so
<http://recycling.world-aluminium.org/review/sustainability.html>) while
(non-biodegradable) recycled plastic almost always requires additional
plastic feedstocks—resulting in perpetual growth of plastic waste.
It can be tricky getting truely environmentally friendly biological
materials (such as bamboo) from non-western countries. The reason is that
the demand for the materials often leads to deforestation of native forests
in order to grow the bamboo, palm trees, etc. Sourcing materials (such as
sustainably grown hemp, flax, or timber) from the few countries that have
strong regulatory schemes would be ideal but typically comes with
commensurately higher costs. Also, biological materials are not likely to
be well suited to the material specifications needed for a laptop chassis.
Note, too, that engineered products (like bamboo floorboards) often
incorporate a large percentage of some pretty nasty glues.
My proposed ordered list above discounts the carbon-intensity of materials
manufacturing, as well as the damage caused from the mining process, but
working out such things is extremely complex and requires detailed audits of
source material, material suppliers, and processing manufacturers. It also
changes from country to country and from region to region within certain
countries. For this project, I think it would be necessary to look at
long-term material use and reuse. Aluminium, although requiring lots of
(possibly dirty) energy to produce, is also an exceptional store of energy
due to its capacity for perpetual recycling. It should also meet the fit,
finish, and strength attributes required for the laptop housing.
http://www.shapeways.com <http://www.shapeways.com/>
http://i.materialise.com <http://i.materialise.com/>
https://www.sculpteo.com/en/ <https://www.sculpteo.com/en/>
http://3dprinterhub.com/3d-printer-services/
<http://3dprinterhub.com/3d-printer-services/> (Comparison service for
Shapeways, imaterialise, and Sculpteo)
https://voodoomfg.com/ <https://voodoomfg.com/> (Volume 3D-printing an option.)
<http://www.shapeways.com/>http://www.ponoko.com/3d-printing
<https://www.ponoko.com/3d-printing> (Volume 3D-printing and laser cutting
an option. Laser cutting and metal forming of aluminium (or Al alloy) sheet
metal might allow for the rapid creation of cheap modular chassis
components.
https://www.quora.com/Who-are-Shapeways-competitors
<https://www.quora.com/Who-are-Shapeways-competitors> (A discussion of
Shapeways and some of its competitors.)
Cheers,
Bluey
P.S. Without getting into the complicated world of finite element analysis
and minimising points of high strain in the design, I would recommend
well-rounded internal edges wherever possible if/when designing a chassis
case. This will reduce high stress concentration in those areas. The
sharper an edge or corner (e.g., on a rectangular hole) the higher the
stress concentration in the material will be at that location.
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
Post by Hrvoje Lasic
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
https://world.taobao.com/item/526287577504.htm
this 3d printer looks ok, can you update on quality when available?
sure. i usually run these at 200mm/s which is a lot of fun - 4x what
they're "rated" at.
l.
_______________________________________________
http://lists.phcomp.co.uk/mailman/listinfo/arm-netbook
Since there seems like a lot of options, I propose selecting from
Bluey's list the 3D printer'er that has the least interest in patents.
Ultimately, I think it would be most undesirable to really commission
any company to do the printing, but should it be necessary the
heaviest expectation we should have for them is not burdening society
with their trolling of anyone who else wants to improve the quality of
a thing.

I realize that poorly sourcing materials here and now, sets a bad
precedent down the road, but the impact of a single run is not going
to be that impactful and we can recover from that bad precedent by
either putting heavier pressure on later or leaving it up to the
individual for their own printing filament sources.

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Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
2017-04-28 07:34:21 UTC
Permalink
Post by John Luke Gibson
Since there seems like a lot of options, I propose selecting from
Bluey's list the 3D printer'er that has the least interest in patents.
Ultimately, I think it would be most undesirable to really commission
any company to do the printing, but should it be necessary the
heaviest expectation we should have for them is not burdening society
with their trolling of anyone who else wants to improve the quality of
a thing.
agreed. everyone in the 3d printing community knows of makerrrbot's betrayal.
Post by John Luke Gibson
I realize that poorly sourcing materials here and now, sets a bad
precedent down the road, but the impact of a single run is not going
to be that impactful and we can recover from that bad precedent by
either putting heavier pressure on later or leaving it up to the
individual for their own printing filament sources.
it's in the update that's pending but the quality of most PLA is just
absolutely dreadful. one easy test is to just leave the filament in
the hot-end, with the spring-loaded hub pressurising it, for two
weeks. if at any time the filament simply... falls off under
pressure, it's sub-standard quality and should be *returned* for a
refund.

the only filament that i've yet found which is of a consistent high
quality is from faberdashery in the UK. i am however testing out
something from the aliexpress company which they call "T-Pla", it's
about the same cost as faberdashery.

but bottom line is: no absolutely not it cannot be just left to
chance - the material *has* to be properly checked, whoever is chosen
to do the 3D printing.

if if is sub-standard PLA the laptop will *literally* fall apart in
people's hands, with the LCD crashing onto the table or, if someone is
carrying it half the components will drop on the floor with the other
half still in their hands.

also while it would be nice to use e.g. carbon fibre reinforced PLA
that's not possible either, because the carbon fibre is highly
abrasive and also blocks up small (0.4mm) nozzles. only 0.5mm and
above is recommended but the design is *very* specifically targetted
for 0.4mm (maybe below) nozzles.

l.

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Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
2017-04-28 09:07:31 UTC
Permalink
Post by Bluey
Hi All,
For what it’s worth, I’d like to thank all of you involved for taking on
this important project.
thanks bluey.
Post by Bluey
I started subscribing to this list just a few days ago so please forgive me
if specific design requirements/parameters have already been decided for the
EOMA computer and my comments are not germane.
all appreciated. the only thing not "up for negotiation" is the
EOMA68 standard revision 1.0, and any future revisions absolutely must
be fully backwards-compatible. a surprise discussion a few months
back brought up a couple of great ideas: if you want higher
resolutions than 1366x768 the Housings *must* use line-buffer or
frame-buffer "upscaling" display chips which can still accept 1366x768
(or below) and yet will perform the necessary hardware-level scaling
to the Housing's output resolution (presumably but not necessarily
fixed).

so there are some things that are definitely final.
Post by Bluey
I’m also not across which
manufacturing skills, tools, and facilities are available within or to the
group.
there's been a lot of expertise that has crossed this list over the
past six years.
Post by Bluey
With the above said, the best option to my mind would be to 3D print and
finish high-quality moulds (in titanium or steel) for use in stamping out
aluminium case components from sheet metal.
the laptop's casework parts quite literally took eighteen months to
develop, six months of which was in the PCBs which had to be also be
developed and hand-populated during that time, to make absolutely sure
that the PCBs and casework would actually fit together.

with only 150 pledges there's absolutely no way - at this immediate
time - that any kind of redesign or additional effort beyond
fulfilling those 150 pledges can be justified, especially given (as
has been mentioned a few times) that the budget is already
insufficient and a plan has been activated to bring in extra funds.
stressing that plan by adding to it is not a good idea, *but*, if
there are alternative workable ideas that come with resources attached
i'd love to hear them.
Post by Bluey
I see modular design to be
important primarily for the internal component selection and layout inside
the laptop body rather than for the body itself, which—to my mind—should be
designed for longevity, strength, rigidity, and good looks (important for
attracting more people to buy the product over time).
i've looked at a number of designs of this type (pi-top being the
most recent) - i posted about many of them during the campaign. i've
done the best that i can, and kept the weight down to 1.1kg (for a
15.6in laptop that's incredibly good) which means that the usual kinds
of structural stresses that require a metal chassis or special
engineering analysis design tools have not been necessary. the
prototype i have found that it can be lifted up with one hand at its
corner and it *does not* bend out of shape, due to the light weight.

that, and insisting on using faberdashery's high quality PLA.
Post by Bluey
Lost-wax metal casting has also been effectively demonstrated with
3D-printed thermoplastic plastics but to me that seems like it might be a
less environmentally friendly option (as compared to the above) despite
possible reuse of the lost wax (the plastic). However, it might be cheaper
and a more-viable option for such small manufacturing runs.
there's quite a bit of detail involved (0.8mm thickness in places) so
i would be very very surprised if metal casting was successful.
Post by Bluey
However, if the decision is made to go with plastic, and assuming a redesign
is a possibility, one option would be to 3D-print the injection mould in
metal (such as titanium) using a specialist 3D-printing service. The mould
could then be used in a standard injection-mould machine.
do you have any idea on how much that would cost? if i recall
correctly the PLA parts weigh 200g in total, and there are 35 of them.
Post by Bluey
It can be tricky getting truely environmentally friendly biological
materials (such as bamboo) from non-western countries.
yeah birchwood turns out to be the most common in europe: 1.5mm 3-ply
which is perfect is very commonly used in making doll's houses.
Post by Bluey
My proposed ordered list above discounts the carbon-intensity of materials
manufacturing, as well as the damage caused from the mining process, but
working out such things is extremely complex and requires detailed audits of
source material, material suppliers, and processing manufacturers. It also
changes from country to country and from region to region within certain
countries. For this project, I think it would be necessary to look at
long-term material use and reuse. Aluminium, although requiring lots of
(possibly dirty) energy to produce, is also an exceptional store of energy
due to its capacity for perpetual recycling. It should also meet the fit,
finish, and strength attributes required for the laptop housing.
surprisingly, faberdashery's PLA combined with the light-weight
nature of the laptop does a really good job.

once through this first phase and this first 150 is out there, other
options can be considered.
Post by Bluey
P.S. Without getting into the complicated world of finite element analysis
and minimising points of high strain in the design, I would recommend
well-rounded internal edges wherever possible if/when designing a chassis
case. This will reduce high stress concentration in those areas. The
sharper an edge or corner (e.g., on a rectangular hole) the higher the
stress concentration in the material will be at that location.
yeah it's very common for the longer parts to pull off the printbed
as the layers go up. one of the worst offenders is the base back
(left/right) which is 160mm long, 11mm wide and *35* mm high. i had
to add a lot of side-bolstering and also a wide brim to get it to
stick, but someone with a much higher-quality 3D printer
(all-aluminium, several thousands of dollars of time and materials)
was able to get away with just one "pinning" square at the front and
the back.

however i now have two pieces of printbite which i will be trying out
soon, we will see how that goes.

but, essentially, unless someone is prepared to help tackle the
casework (using libre software services, not e.g. github), due to the
amount of time it took (18 months) i will go with what i have for this
first revision.

thanks bluey.

l.

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Adam Van Ymeren
2017-04-27 15:15:39 UTC
Permalink
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
On Thu, Apr 27, 2017 at 1:00 PM, Christian Kellermann
Post by Christian Kellermann
As the current issue is time in producing them I would also scratch
the printed parts order myself, maybe in exchange for a discount on
future designs done by Luke and print them myself. People with access
to a maker lab could consider doing the same...
I am not capable to promise good quality printing for 3rd parties as
I
Post by Christian Kellermann
have been starting getting into this for a rather short while now...
well, a 200x200 basic reprap will do the job, with a 0.4mm nozzle and
a layer height of between 0.15 and 0.2mm is absolutely fine. it's not
hugely difficult. i've just ordered this ($140!!) 3D printer from a
https://world.taobao.com/item/526287577504.htm
Here's a thought, if you're okay running a fleet of printers, what if we crowd funded a fleet of 3d printers, whereby people pay for printers, you do a bulk order of printers, use them to print the parts and then distribute the printers to backers. Sort of like a promotional thing, you can receive one of the printers that was used to make your laptop.
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
now, at $140 i am quite happy to get up to 10 of those (if the first
one checks out fine) - it looks *really* sturdy: 20x20 aluminium
box-section: my only concern about rigidity being that it uses
L-brackets which go *into* the frame rather than triangle-corners
which are bolted outside and lock the box-section absolutely solid.
but, we'll see what happens.
also it looks like it has a clone of the E3Dv6 hot-end (which is
really good), it has trapezoidal z-axis lead screws with proper brass
nuts, borosilicate glass plate (to be confirmed).
the one thing i have told the guy (and he's happy to give a RMB 70
discount): i do NOT want the f*****-s***-for-brains RAMPS 1.4
controller. if you're familiar with 3D printing for f***'s sake STAY
AWAY from ANYTHING that uses the brain-dead "Polulu" driver "modules".
RAMPS, RUMBA, Lerdge, Megatronics - just don't f*****g well do it.
the reason is really really simple: those QFN ICs are designed
SPECIFICALLY, as outlined CLEARLY IN THE DATASHEET, for the heat to be
dissipated THROUGH THE PCB. there is a ceramic insulator on the TOP
OF THE CHIP which ACTIVELY PREVENTS HEAT DISSIPATING THROUGH THE TOP.
if you put a heat sink on top of the chip it does... nothing.
now, when the first reprap was created, in order to save time and
development cost they bought some PROTOTYPING boards with the stepper
drivers pre-mounted, which came with SPECIFIC instructions "under no
circumstances use these in production".
so what happens?
well, they (a) burn out (b) overheat (c) stop working for a couple of
seconds at a time in the middle of a print...
... you get the general idea.
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/Melzi-board/1757194_500507171.html
and it turns out that on the reprap wiki there's a mod to them which
allows for the connection of a BT UART. it would have been handy if
those pins had been brought out on a header but hey, what's wrong with
a bit of soldering.
if you don't want to do soldering then you can just put the Melzi 2.0
into "auto-load" mode, drop a file in a FAT32 filesystem on a MicroSD
card and power it up.
i like the Melzi 2. it's simple, relatively low-cost compared to some
of the other options, no-nonsense and straightforward.
l.
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Peter Carlson
2017-04-27 15:36:30 UTC
Permalink
Having just got into 3D printing myself I would suggest it is not yet a
plug and play experience yet. Although the printer I got was very
definitely a DIY project requiring assembly etc. the groups I am following
also suggests to me that quality is very definitely an acquired skill that
comes through experience. I had thought of volunteering my printers to
complete the process for this project but I am not certain that my printing
is up to the quality standards and as such I am not sure that I would want
the stress of trying to turning out a product that I may not be experienced
enough to do. I would think the only way to do a crowd source printing
would require getting sample prints from each participant for evaluation. A
process that would be quite time consuming I think. One mans' opinion.
On April 27, 2017 9:23:40 AM EDT, Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton <
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
On Thu, Apr 27, 2017 at 1:00 PM, Christian Kellermann
Post by Christian Kellermann
As the current issue is time in producing them I would also scratch
the printed parts order myself, maybe in exchange for a discount on
future designs done by Luke and print them myself. People with access
to a maker lab could consider doing the same...
I am not capable to promise good quality printing for 3rd parties as
I
Post by Christian Kellermann
have been starting getting into this for a rather short while now...
well, a 200x200 basic reprap will do the job, with a 0.4mm nozzle and
a layer height of between 0.15 and 0.2mm is absolutely fine. it's not
hugely difficult. i've just ordered this ($140!!) 3D printer from a
https://world.taobao.com/item/526287577504.htm
Here's a thought, if you're okay running a fleet of printers, what if we
crowd funded a fleet of 3d printers, whereby people pay for printers, you
do a bulk order of printers, use them to print the parts and then
distribute the printers to backers. Sort of like a promotional thing, you
can receive one of the printers that was used to make your laptop.
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
now, at $140 i am quite happy to get up to 10 of those (if the first
one checks out fine) - it looks *really* sturdy: 20x20 aluminium
box-section: my only concern about rigidity being that it uses
L-brackets which go *into* the frame rather than triangle-corners
which are bolted outside and lock the box-section absolutely solid.
but, we'll see what happens.
also it looks like it has a clone of the E3Dv6 hot-end (which is
really good), it has trapezoidal z-axis lead screws with proper brass
nuts, borosilicate glass plate (to be confirmed).
the one thing i have told the guy (and he's happy to give a RMB 70
discount): i do NOT want the f*****-s***-for-brains RAMPS 1.4
controller. if you're familiar with 3D printing for f***'s sake STAY
AWAY from ANYTHING that uses the brain-dead "Polulu" driver "modules".
RAMPS, RUMBA, Lerdge, Megatronics - just don't f*****g well do it.
the reason is really really simple: those QFN ICs are designed
SPECIFICALLY, as outlined CLEARLY IN THE DATASHEET, for the heat to be
dissipated THROUGH THE PCB. there is a ceramic insulator on the TOP
OF THE CHIP which ACTIVELY PREVENTS HEAT DISSIPATING THROUGH THE TOP.
if you put a heat sink on top of the chip it does... nothing.
now, when the first reprap was created, in order to save time and
development cost they bought some PROTOTYPING boards with the stepper
drivers pre-mounted, which came with SPECIFIC instructions "under no
circumstances use these in production".
so what happens?
well, they (a) burn out (b) overheat (c) stop working for a couple of
seconds at a time in the middle of a print...
... you get the general idea.
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/Melzi-board/1757194_500507171.html
and it turns out that on the reprap wiki there's a mod to them which
allows for the connection of a BT UART. it would have been handy if
those pins had been brought out on a header but hey, what's wrong with
a bit of soldering.
if you don't want to do soldering then you can just put the Melzi 2.0
into "auto-load" mode, drop a file in a FAT32 filesystem on a MicroSD
card and power it up.
i like the Melzi 2. it's simple, relatively low-cost compared to some
of the other options, no-nonsense and straightforward.
l.
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Adam Van Ymeren
2017-04-27 15:40:18 UTC
Permalink
Post by Peter Carlson
Having just got into 3D printing myself I would suggest it is not yet a
plug and play experience yet. Although the printer I got was very
definitely a DIY project requiring assembly etc. the groups I am following
also suggests to me that quality is very definitely an acquired skill that
comes through experience. I had thought of volunteering my printers to
complete the process for this project but I am not certain that my printing
is up to the quality standards and as such I am not sure that I would want
the stress of trying to turning out a product that I may not be
experienced
enough to do. I would think the only way to do a crowd source printing
would require getting sample prints from each participant for
evaluation.
This is why I was thinking of letting Luke do the printing and order of printers, just having the crowd put up funds for the purchase of printers, which the backers would receive the printer after the laptops have shipped.
Post by Peter Carlson
A process that would be quite time consuming I think. One mans' opinion.
On April 27, 2017 9:23:40 AM EDT, Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton <
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
On Thu, Apr 27, 2017 at 1:00 PM, Christian Kellermann
Post by Christian Kellermann
As the current issue is time in producing them I would also
scratch
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
Post by Christian Kellermann
the printed parts order myself, maybe in exchange for a discount
on
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
Post by Christian Kellermann
future designs done by Luke and print them myself. People with
access
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
Post by Christian Kellermann
to a maker lab could consider doing the same...
I am not capable to promise good quality printing for 3rd parties
as
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
I
Post by Christian Kellermann
have been starting getting into this for a rather short while
now...
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
well, a 200x200 basic reprap will do the job, with a 0.4mm nozzle
and
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
a layer height of between 0.15 and 0.2mm is absolutely fine. it's
not
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
hugely difficult. i've just ordered this ($140!!) 3D printer from a
https://world.taobao.com/item/526287577504.htm
Here's a thought, if you're okay running a fleet of printers, what if
we
crowd funded a fleet of 3d printers, whereby people pay for printers,
you
do a bulk order of printers, use them to print the parts and then
distribute the printers to backers. Sort of like a promotional
thing, you
can receive one of the printers that was used to make your laptop.
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
now, at $140 i am quite happy to get up to 10 of those (if the first
one checks out fine) - it looks *really* sturdy: 20x20 aluminium
box-section: my only concern about rigidity being that it uses
L-brackets which go *into* the frame rather than triangle-corners
which are bolted outside and lock the box-section absolutely solid.
but, we'll see what happens.
also it looks like it has a clone of the E3Dv6 hot-end (which is
really good), it has trapezoidal z-axis lead screws with proper
brass
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
nuts, borosilicate glass plate (to be confirmed).
the one thing i have told the guy (and he's happy to give a RMB 70
discount): i do NOT want the f*****-s***-for-brains RAMPS 1.4
controller. if you're familiar with 3D printing for f***'s sake
STAY
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
AWAY from ANYTHING that uses the brain-dead "Polulu" driver
"modules".
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
RAMPS, RUMBA, Lerdge, Megatronics - just don't f*****g well do it.
the reason is really really simple: those QFN ICs are designed
SPECIFICALLY, as outlined CLEARLY IN THE DATASHEET, for the heat to
be
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
dissipated THROUGH THE PCB. there is a ceramic insulator on the TOP
OF THE CHIP which ACTIVELY PREVENTS HEAT DISSIPATING THROUGH THE
TOP.
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
if you put a heat sink on top of the chip it does... nothing.
now, when the first reprap was created, in order to save time and
development cost they bought some PROTOTYPING boards with the
stepper
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
drivers pre-mounted, which came with SPECIFIC instructions "under no
circumstances use these in production".
so what happens?
well, they (a) burn out (b) overheat (c) stop working for a couple
of
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
seconds at a time in the middle of a print...
... you get the general idea.
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/Melzi-board/1757194_500507171.html
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
and it turns out that on the reprap wiki there's a mod to them which
allows for the connection of a BT UART. it would have been handy if
those pins had been brought out on a header but hey, what's wrong
with
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
a bit of soldering.
if you don't want to do soldering then you can just put the Melzi
2.0
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
into "auto-load" mode, drop a file in a FAT32 filesystem on a
MicroSD
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
card and power it up.
i like the Melzi 2. it's simple, relatively low-cost compared to
some
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
of the other options, no-nonsense and straightforward.
l.
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Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
2017-04-27 16:02:31 UTC
Permalink
Post by Adam Van Ymeren
This is why I was thinking of letting Luke do the printing and order of printers, just having the crowd put up funds for the purchase of printers, which the backers would receive the printer after the laptops have shipped.
one concern is: my partner really doesn't want our apartment to be
turned into a factory. also this is likely to take place during
summer, which here in taiwan apparently hit FORTY FIVE (centigrade)
last year. yes we have air conditioning units but all the same...

l.

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Adam Van Ymeren
2017-04-27 16:18:37 UTC
Permalink
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
Post by Adam Van Ymeren
This is why I was thinking of letting Luke do the printing and order
of printers, just having the crowd put up funds for the purchase of
printers, which the backers would receive the printer after the
laptops have shipped.
one concern is: my partner really doesn't want our apartment to be
turned into a factory. also this is likely to take place during
summer, which here in taiwan apparently hit FORTY FIVE (centigrade)
last year. yes we have air conditioning units but all the same...
Hmm, lots of conflicting requirements here :).

How many printers do you think you need operating to produce the parts
in a reasonable time frame?
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
l.
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Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
2017-04-28 04:04:40 UTC
Permalink
Post by Adam Van Ymeren
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
one concern is: my partner really doesn't want our apartment to be
turned into a factory. also this is likely to take place during
summer, which here in taiwan apparently hit FORTY FIVE (centigrade)
last year. yes we have air conditioning units but all the same...
Hmm, lots of conflicting requirements here :).
tell me about it....
Post by Adam Van Ymeren
How many printers do you think you need operating to produce the parts
in a reasonable time frame?
10 of those $140 printers would bring it down to one month full-time
24x7 3D printing. so realistically, 10 would bring it down to about 3
months.

l.

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Allan Mwenda
2017-04-28 07:49:14 UTC
Permalink
Quick, give this man $1400
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
Post by Adam Van Ymeren
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
one concern is: my partner really doesn't want our apartment to be
turned into a factory. also this is likely to take place during
summer, which here in taiwan apparently hit FORTY FIVE (centigrade)
last year. yes we have air conditioning units but all the same...
Hmm, lots of conflicting requirements here :).
tell me about it....
Post by Adam Van Ymeren
How many printers do you think you need operating to produce the
parts
Post by Adam Van Ymeren
in a reasonable time frame?
10 of those $140 printers would bring it down to one month full-time
24x7 3D printing. so realistically, 10 would bring it down to about 3
months.
l.
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Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
2017-04-28 07:56:29 UTC
Permalink
Post by Allan Mwenda
Quick, give this man $1400
:)

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Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
2017-04-27 12:54:13 UTC
Permalink
Post by Adam Van Ymeren
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
* Frida, in Shenzhen, have a customer currently ordering their 2.8in
FRD280J3703D SPI-based LCD. this means it's possible to place an
order for less than the normal MOQ of 1,000 so we go with that one for
the 15in laptop.
* i calculated that for the microdesktop i have an ENTIRE MONTH of
3d-printing to do, and a YEAR for the laptop. there's an update going
out about this soon but basically i need help. ideas or actual
practical help.
Are there companies that you could hire to do the bulk of the 3d printing?
there's a network-3D-printing company called mohou.com which i
previously investigated.
Post by Adam Van Ymeren
Any idea what the quality and/or cost would be?
QTY 2000 of the microdesktop corner parts.

QTY 150 of each of the THIRTY FIVE laptop parts.

uploading QTY 1 of the microdesktop corner part is 10 RMB per part
(so that would be 20,000 RMB or about $USD 3300). putting them in a
batch of 60 and its 95 RMB per "part" (so that would be around $USD
500).
Post by Adam Van Ymeren
Is there any feasibility of producing the laptop parts via injection molding, but preserving the design in a way that end users could still print replacement parts? Seems like this would require a large redesign investment but could save time and money manufacturing.
it wouldn't be a large redesign (i hope) because as i am using a
parametric design in python it *should* be possible to just write an
alternative backend for pyopenscad that outputs STEP instead of
SCAD-which-gets-turned-into-STL.

that's in theory. in practice i really really don't want to spend
the time going down that route, even if there exists a STEP library
(in python).

why STEP? because that's the standard that injection molding uses,
because it's a geometric standard (not a triangles-and-faces standard
like STL).

l.

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Miguel Ángel García
2017-04-27 16:06:27 UTC
Permalink
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
* Frida, in Shenzhen, have a customer currently ordering their 2.8in
FRD280J3703D SPI-based LCD. this means it's possible to place an
order for less than the normal MOQ of 1,000 so we go with that one for
the 15in laptop.
This?: http://hands.com/~lkcl/eoma/shenzen/frida/FRD280J3703D.pdf

No CTP, only RTP?



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Christopher Havel
2017-04-27 16:11:11 UTC
Permalink
...for the people still on Imperial units, rather than the SI/"metric"
system -- 45 C is 113 F. ~36-37 C is body temperature (I've memorized 36
from my high school days, but Google says 37) which is pretty dang hot. At
113 F my skin would probably boil off... well, that's what it would feel
like, anyhow!
Post by Miguel Ángel García
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
* Frida, in Shenzhen, have a customer currently ordering their 2.8in
FRD280J3703D SPI-based LCD. this means it's possible to place an
order for less than the normal MOQ of 1,000 so we go with that one for
the 15in laptop.
This?: http://hands.com/~lkcl/eoma/shenzen/frida/FRD280J3703D.pdf
No CTP, only RTP?
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Hendrik Boom
2017-04-27 17:37:58 UTC
Permalink
Post by Christopher Havel
...for the people still on Imperial units, rather than the SI/"metric"
system -- 45 C is 113 F. ~36-37 C is body temperature (I've memorized 36
from my high school days, but Google says 37) which is pretty dang hot. At
113 F my skin would probably boil off... well, that's what it would feel
like, anyhow!
I asked my wife, a retired doctor.

37 is generally considered to be body temperature. But people vary. My wife says
her basal body temperature is 36.4.

38.5 and above is considered to be a fever.

-- hendrik

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Christopher Havel
2017-04-27 18:48:03 UTC
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Thanks, Hendrik!

Sorry for the delayed reply, as well... 'twas out running errands.
Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
2017-04-27 16:12:34 UTC
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crowd-funded eco-conscious hardware: https://www.crowdsupply.com/eoma68
Post by Miguel Ángel García
Post by Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
* Frida, in Shenzhen, have a customer currently ordering their 2.8in
FRD280J3703D SPI-based LCD. this means it's possible to place an
order for less than the normal MOQ of 1,000 so we go with that one for
the 15in laptop.
This?: http://hands.com/~lkcl/eoma/shenzen/frida/FRD280J3703D.pdf
No CTP, only RTP?
sorry wrong one - P/N FRD280QV10-CT

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