Discussion:
[Arm-netbook] asus eeepc 7inch, modifying it to accept a pc card
r***@Safe-mail.net
2018-02-11 20:05:17 UTC
Permalink
This post is about modifying an asus eeepc 7inch notebook into accepting
a pc card. You are invite to contribute.

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Christopher Havel
2018-02-11 20:13:45 UTC
Permalink
Ron, it occurs to me that I may have something in my junk bin for you. Can
you get me the model # of the LCD panel itself in that system? You'll have
to take the lid apart... should be a bunch of mumbo-jumbo on the back of
the panel in large letters.

If you're not sure -- host a picture of the label on one of those many
image-hosting sites out there, and post up the link here. I'll know it when
I see it.
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Se
Pičugins Arsenijs
2018-02-11 21:40:08 UTC
Permalink
Post by r***@Safe-mail.net
This post is about modifying an asus eeepc 7inch notebook into accepting
a pc card. You are invite to contribute.
For your information, I am in a censorship dispute with lkcl. I do
not know what he will come up with. Maybe some or all of my
posts will be stopped.
I'm going to get an EEEoma Wiki up in the following week and start documenting everything there; if you end up losing posting privileges, feel free to email me directly.
Post by r***@Safe-mail.net
I do not follow lkcl's opposition on this.
He's trying to make sure that the resulting design is safe and 1) won't ruin reputation of EOMA68 2) will be a good reference design for other designers that want to make EOMA68-compatible things, so that their designs won't ruin the EOMA68 reputation.
Post by r***@Safe-mail.net
It is a weller sp 40l 40w.
It seems to have a wide tip, so I'm wondering if it's suitable for soldering things like a 0.8-pitch connector... We'll see. At worst, you can get a working soldering iron for $5 from China, and a set of good tips for $5 more.
Post by r***@Safe-mail.net
In case I did not mention it before. I have a raspberry pi 0 and
a beaglebone black revision c if that could be useful.
Those could be useful for testing, I think.
Post by r***@Safe-mail.net
I still have the asus eeepc's mainboard.
That's great =) So we likely can harvest a couple of chips from it if necessary.
Post by r***@Safe-mail.net
The pocketchip's keyboard is an i2c keyboard. Is the asus
eeepc's keyboard also an i2c keyboard?
The pocketchip's keyboard, just like the EEE PC keyboard, is not I2C by itself - it's a key matrix, and there's usually a controller that connects to this key matrix. In PocketCHIP's case, it talks I2C - in case of EEE PC, that controller is a part of Embedded Controller on the EEE PC mainboard (which controls a whole load of functions), so we're making our own controller by taking a microcontroller, putting it on a board with a 28-pin connector and writing a firmware for it.
Post by r***@Safe-mail.net
Instead of
modifying the asus eeepc's keyboard into an usb
keyboard, what about i2c connecting the keyboard to
the pc card?
Either that, or use PS2 - since we likely will have a PS2-USB chip anyway (for the touchpad). The benefit of using PS/2 is that we won't need to write our own kernel driver - however, we will need to find a way to reliably source PS2-UAB converter chips, or converter boards.
Post by r***@Safe-mail.net
To my knowledge you can use the
beaglebone black revision c to test i2c devices.
You can also use the Pi Zero for the same task, if I understand you correctly (just FYI).
Post by r***@Safe-mail.net
I have this forestalled remark. I would prefer not to cut
in the asus eeepc's cabinet. If I do it wrongly, I do not have
another cabinet.
Hmm. That's tricky - I was planning to suggest the "cutting" approach, but I don't know of a good way to cut into the cabinet so that it's easy and mistake-proof. Thankfully, I have 2 spare cases to experiment with, and I have some ideas =)
Post by r***@Safe-mail.net
Instead at the bottom of the asus eeepc there is a removable
plate. There is a balk which likely can be removed. I would
prefer to insert the pc card by that plate.
I'll measure it and see if it's suitable - that is, if we can even insert the card. I can't yet imagine how it would work, but I will think about it. (the space inside the EEE case is quite limited, so there's only so many ways to keep the card in).
Post by r***@Safe-mail.net
I have not been able to find something like the pcmcia/eoma
68 breakout board. Should we not find a shop to buy
one?
I haven't yet found PCMCIA breakouts (or EOMA68 breakouts, for that matter), so it's not a commodity item, and I'm guessing that places that have them will have it at high prices, just because it's not that popular. Lkcl has breakouts listed on Crowdsupply, but I imagine there's some time until they will be manufactured and available. Until that, we can either work on other tasks - and, later on, we can design our own breakouts if it proves necessary.

Cheers!
Arsenijs

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Christopher Havel
2018-02-11 21:51:33 UTC
Permalink
Quick post from my phone -- existing PCMCIA card cages from random laptops
are a dime-a-dozen on fleaBay, if you want to go that route. They would
likely need minor modifications to the keying, but that's hardly a
showstopper.

Ron, did you see my previous email? I have an LCD panel that may work for
you, to replace the original in the Eee - but I won't know if it's
compatible, without that part number. If it *is* compatible, I'll ask you
to cover shipping costs and that's all.

I know /almost/ for a fact that my display will work with an EOMA68 card,
as it takes a parallel TTL input -- somewhere I think I have the datasheet
-- I just need your part number to know if they are physically
interchangeable without getting out the craft knife... I suspect the aspect
ratios are different, though -- mine is straight SVGA (800x600), and IIRC,
Eee PC netbooks were always widescreen -- either 800x480 or 1024x600...
Post by Pičugins Arsenijs
Post by r***@Safe-mail.net
This post is about modifying an asus eeepc 7inch notebook into accepting
a pc card. You are invite to contribute.
For your information, I am in a censorship dispute with lkcl. I do
not know what he will come up with. Maybe some or all of my
posts will be stopped.
I'm going to get an EEEoma Wiki up in the following week and start
documenting everything there; if you end up losing posting privileges, feel
free to email me directly.
Post by r***@Safe-mail.net
I do not follow lkcl's opposition on this.
He's trying to make sure that the resulting design is safe and 1) won't
ruin reputation of EOMA68 2) will be a good reference design for other
designers that want to make EOMA68-compatible things, so that their designs
won't ruin the EOMA68 reputation.
Post by r***@Safe-mail.net
It is a weller sp 40l 40w.
It seems to have a wide tip, so I'm wondering if it's suitable for
soldering things like a 0.8-pitch connector... We'll see. At worst, you can
get a working soldering iron for $5 from China, and a set of good tips for
$5 more.
Post by r***@Safe-mail.net
In case I did not mention it before. I have a raspberry pi 0 and
a beaglebone black revision c if that could be useful.
Those could be useful for testing, I think.
Post by r***@Safe-mail.net
I still have the asus eeepc's mainboard.
That's great =) So we likely can harvest a couple of chips from it if necessary.
Post by r***@Safe-mail.net
The pocketchip's keyboard is an i2c keyboard. Is the asus
eeepc's keyboard also an i2c keyboard?
The pocketchip's keyboard, just like the EEE PC keyboard, is not I2C by
itself - it's a key matrix, and there's usually a controller that connects
to this key matrix. In PocketCHIP's case, it talks I2C - in case of EEE PC,
that controller is a part of Embedded Controller on the EEE PC mainboard
(which controls a whole load of functions), so we're making our own
controller by taking a microcontroller, putting it on a board with a 28-pin
connector and writing a firmware for it.
Post by r***@Safe-mail.net
Instead of
modifying the asus eeepc's keyboard into an usb
keyboard, what about i2c connecting the keyboard to
the pc card?
Either that, or use PS2 - since we likely will have a PS2-USB chip anyway
(for the touchpad). The benefit of using PS/2 is that we won't need to
write our own kernel driver - however, we will need to find a way to
reliably source PS2-UAB converter chips, or converter boards.
Post by r***@Safe-mail.net
To my knowledge you can use the
beaglebone black revision c to test i2c devices.
You can also use the Pi Zero for the same task, if I understand you correctly (just FYI).
Post by r***@Safe-mail.net
I have this forestalled remark. I would prefer not to cut
in the asus eeepc's cabinet. If I do it wrongly, I do not have
another cabinet.
Hmm. That's tricky - I was planning to suggest the "cutting" approach, but
I don't know of a good way to cut into the cabinet so that it's easy and
mistake-proof. Thankfully, I have 2 spare cases to experiment with, and I
have some ideas =)
Post by r***@Safe-mail.net
Instead at the bottom of the asus eeepc there is a removable
plate. There is a balk which likely can be removed. I would
prefer to insert the pc card by that plate.
I'll measure it and see if it's suitable - that is, if we can even insert
the card. I can't yet imagine how it would work, but I will think about it.
(the space inside the EEE case is quite limited, so there's only so many
ways to keep the card in).
Post by r***@Safe-mail.net
I have not been able to find something like the pcmcia/eoma
68 breakout board. Should we not find a shop to buy
one?
I haven't yet found PCMCIA breakouts (or EOMA68 breakouts, for that
matter), so it's not a commodity item, and I'm guessing that places that
have them will have it at high prices, just because it's not that popular.
Lkcl has breakouts listed on Crowdsupply, but I imagine there's some time
until they will be manufactured and available. Until that, we can either
work on other tasks - and, later on, we can design our own breakouts if it
proves necessary.
Cheers!
Arsenijs
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Pičugins Arsenijs
2018-02-11 21:58:32 UTC
Permalink
Post by Christopher Havel
Quick post from my phone -- existing PCMCIA card cages from random laptops
are a dime-a-dozen on fleaBay, if you want to go that route. They would
likely need minor modifications to the keying, but that's hardly a
showstopper.
True, but they have proprietary pinouts, can easily be as big as to be unwieldly, and they're more expensive - I just checked Taobao and a PCMCIA socket there is 72 cents, I'll get 10pcs.
Post by Christopher Havel
Ron, did you see my previous email? I have an LCD panel that may work for
you, to replace the original in the Eee - but I won't know if it's
compatible, without that part number. If it *is* compatible, I'll ask you
to cover shipping costs and that's all.
I can check it tomorrow, too - I'm not at my workplace right now. I also imagine you can look up eBay for "asus eee 701 panel" and find the model numbers.
Post by Christopher Havel
I know /almost/ for a fact that my display will work with an EOMA68 card,
as it takes a parallel TTL input -- somewhere I think I have the datasheet
-- I just need your part number to know if they are physically
interchangeable without getting out the craft knife... I suspect the aspect
ratios are different, though -- mine is straight SVGA (800x600), and IIRC,
Eee PC netbooks were always widescreen -- either 800x480 or 1024x600...
Right, EEE PC 701 has a 800x480 screen. So, I'm guessing that the display bezel mod will be necessary, too.

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Christopher Havel
2018-02-11 22:05:02 UTC
Permalink
I'll see what I can find on the screen... eBay does not reliably list model
#s but who knows.

Oh -- and for the keyboard -- look into the work done with custom keyboards
and a microcontroller called the "Teensy" -- the code should be compatible
with an Arduino Micro -- of which cheap clones can be had on eBay. To be
clear, you want the Arduino MICRO with the ATMEGA32U4 in it, and
specifically NOT the similar Arduino NANO with the ATMEGA328 in it. The
'32U4 part has on-chip USB so you can do USB-HID stuff with it. I will warn
you that the cheap Arduino clone boards tend to use a particularly touchy
voltage regulator -- I've fried one of those boards that way, it's not
hard...
Post by Christopher Havel
Post by Christopher Havel
Quick post from my phone -- existing PCMCIA card cages from random
laptops
Post by Christopher Havel
are a dime-a-dozen on fleaBay, if you want to go that route. They would
likely need minor modifications to the keying, but that's hardly a
showstopper.
True, but they have proprietary pinouts, can easily be as big as to be
unwieldly, and they're more expensive - I just checked Taobao and a PCMCIA
socket there is 72 cents, I'll get 10pcs.
Post by Christopher Havel
Ron, did you see my previous email? I have an LCD panel that may work for
you, to replace the original in the Eee - but I won't know if it's
compatible, without that part number. If it *is* compatible, I'll ask you
to cover shipping costs and that's all.
I can check it tomorrow, too - I'm not at my workplace right now. I also
imagine you can look up eBay for "asus eee 701 panel" and find the model
numbers.
Post by Christopher Havel
I know /almost/ for a fact that my display will work with an EOMA68 card,
as it takes a parallel TTL input -- somewhere I think I have the
datasheet
Post by Christopher Havel
-- I just need your part number to know if they are physically
interchangeable without getting out the craft knife... I suspect the
aspect
Post by Christopher Havel
ratios are different, though -- mine is straight SVGA (800x600), and
IIRC,
Post by Christopher Havel
Eee PC netbooks were always widescreen -- either 800x480 or 1024x600...
Right, EEE PC 701 has a 800x480 screen. So, I'm guessing that the display
bezel mod will be necessary, too.
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Pičugins Arsenijs
2018-02-11 22:15:22 UTC
Permalink
Post by Christopher Havel
Oh -- and for the keyboard -- look into the work done with custom keyboards
and a microcontroller called the "Teensy" -- the code should be compatible
with an Arduino Micro -- of which cheap clones can be had on eBay. To be
clear, you want the Arduino MICRO with the ATMEGA32U4 in it, and
specifically NOT the similar Arduino NANO with the ATMEGA328 in it. The
'32U4 part has on-chip USB so you can do USB-HID stuff with it.
A Teensy could work, indeed. The issue is - the keyboard needs 24 (16+8) pins. Now that I think of it, we can use 32U4, it has 8 PCINT pins (that we can use for 8 rows) and there are 18 GPIOs remaining - enough to implement I2C (without the INT pin, though) or PS/2 - or, indeed, use USB.
Post by Christopher Havel
I will warn
you that the cheap Arduino clone boards tend to use a particularly touchy
voltage regulator -- I've fried one of those boards that way, it's not
hard...
Does the regulator come into play if we feed the ATMega32U4 from either 5V or 3.3V directly into VCC? I guess it doesn't.

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Christopher Havel
2018-02-11 22:24:22 UTC
Permalink
The regulator does not come into play if you feed it directly with 5v. I
don't think the 3.3v pin is an allowable input, though... I remember that
the 5v pin can go either way like that, but I dunno about the 3.3v one.
Personally, if you're feeding it /regulated/ 5v -- desolder the regulator.
You're better off without it. It's a little four-pin SOT that looks like a
transistor with a tab pin... the specific part number is A1117.

Word to the wise on the $5-8 eBay USB soldering irons -- they work
remarkably well, but use ONLY with a power bank. There's a Scottish bloke
on YouTube calls himself "Big Clive Dot Com" -- he has a segment from 2016
or so on these irons, and he explains why I'm saying this far better than I
can explain it myself. Go watch the episode, it's here (~20min, and worth
every second) -->


...also...

If eBay is to be believed on part numbers here -- you should have an AUO
brand A070VW04 screen in that thing. If it's a stock screen, then according
to what I'm looking at, you don't need my display, you've already got one
that's 24bit TTL parallel.

Here's the datasheet I found --> http://www.taopanel.com/
auo/datasheet/A070VW04-V0.pdf

If youi WANT my display -- again, just pay shipping -- I can send it along.
I'll get model # and datasheet upon profession of interest. It'll give you
a few extra pixels, if you put it in, but you'll definitely need to cut
down that ginormous bezel to fit the thing -- it looks like they put a
seven inch display in a ten inch netbook, ha! (Insert inevitable
intelligence-comparison joke here.) I do remember that it was from a real
cheap pile-of-doodoo "eReader" tablet that my mother bought herself about
three months before Borders Books fell flat... Velocity Micro Cruz R101 is
the make and model. Usual horribly-cheap fare... it was probably outdated
when new. It never went above IIRC Android 2.something IIRC, had a 600MHz
or so VIA SoC that was probably overclocked and inevitably undercooled, and
was just all-around awful to use. It positively /reeked/ of cheap.
Post by Christopher Havel
Post by Christopher Havel
Oh -- and for the keyboard -- look into the work done with custom
keyboards
Post by Christopher Havel
and a microcontroller called the "Teensy" -- the code should be
compatible
Post by Christopher Havel
with an Arduino Micro -- of which cheap clones can be had on eBay. To be
clear, you want the Arduino MICRO with the ATMEGA32U4 in it, and
specifically NOT the similar Arduino NANO with the ATMEGA328 in it. The
'32U4 part has on-chip USB so you can do USB-HID stuff with it.
A Teensy could work, indeed. The issue is - the keyboard needs 24 (16+8)
pins. Now that I think of it, we can use 32U4, it has 8 PCINT pins (that we
can use for 8 rows) and there are 18 GPIOs remaining - enough to implement
I2C (without the INT pin, though) or PS/2 - or, indeed, use USB.
Post by Christopher Havel
I will warn
you that the cheap Arduino clone boards tend to use a particularly touchy
voltage regulator -- I've fried one of those boards that way, it's not
hard...
Does the regulator come into play if we feed the ATMega32U4 from either 5V
or 3.3V directly into VCC? I guess it doesn't.
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Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
2018-02-13 19:07:50 UTC
Permalink
Post by Pičugins Arsenijs
Post by r***@Safe-mail.net
I do not follow lkcl's opposition on this.
there's no "opposition" ron.
Post by Pičugins Arsenijs
He's trying to make sure that the resulting design is safe and 1) won't ruin reputation of EOMA68 2) will be a good reference design for other designers that want to make EOMA68-compatible things, so that their designs won't ruin the EOMA68 reputation.
correct. arsenijs i leave it up to you to explain it to ron's
satisfaction. anyone is permitted to use the word "EOMA68"... *ONLY*
if it meets ***MY*** approval. that means you follow the rules that
*** I and I alone *** set, regarding EOMA68.

this is to ensure that you do not end up killing someone through a
lithium battery fire because you didn't fucking well listen... and the
fire investigators do not go "oh it's an EOMA68 product... shut those
fuckers down NOW"... and the parents of the child whom you effectively
murdered through your highly irresponsible negligence try to sue ***
ME *** because *** YOU *** broke Trademark Law by putting "EOMA68" on
the product without my explicit consent and authorisation, and did not
go through and did not respect that there has to be a proper and full
audit and review of the entire product - by me - before you can use
the (copyrighted) phrase "EOMA68".

bottom line: you are free to do whatever you like.... *IF* you do NOT
mention IN ANY WAY that you and your product are directly or
indirectly associated with EOMA68. if however you want to mention
"EOMA68" anywhere on the product or the website, you REQUIRE MY
PERMISSION TO DO SO and need to do EXACTLY WHAT I ASK.

this is Trademark Law. it exists for a damn good reason.

if this is unacceptable to you, if you cannot accept that Trademark
Law applies, if you do not recognise that i am the sole exclusive
Copyright holder of the EOMA68 Certification Mark, if you are unable
or unwilling to respect the compliance requirements for the *FULL*
EOMA68 Specification, you should stop using the phrase "EOMA68"...
*right now*.

this is really important that you understand and accept, ok?
Post by Pičugins Arsenijs
I haven't yet found PCMCIA breakouts (or EOMA68 breakouts, for that matter),
same difference...

digikey have some PCMCIA connectors available: they'll get you
started at least. yes i do have some (at the factory in china), i may
have some at the flat in taiwan, i'll have to dig them out. if you
can look on digikey for PCCARD or PCMCIA connectors or anywhere else,
just to get some sort of breakout board, go for those. i'd recommend
the through-hole ones as you can solder directly to the pins if
necessary.

l.

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Pablo Rath
2018-02-11 22:10:43 UTC
Permalink
Post by r***@Safe-mail.net
This post is about modifying an asus eeepc 7inch notebook into accepting
a pc card. You are invite to contribute.
I find the idea to turn an asus eeepc 7inch notebook into an EOMA68
housing very interesting. I don't have the knowledge to contribute at
the current stage.

I recommend to use the terms of the glossary right from the beginning
(https://elinux.org/Embedded_Open_Modular_Architecture/EOMA68#Glossary_of_Terms).
So I think the above statement from Ron should better be phrased:
"This post is about modifiying an asus eeepc 7inch notebook to work as a
housing for an EOMA68-card."
I don't want to appear overly nitpicky but I think common terms are important to avoid
misunderstanding.

Good luck with the project and happy hacking!

kind regards
Pablo

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r***@Safe-mail.net
2018-02-13 18:44:02 UTC
Permalink
-------- Original Message --------
From: Pičugins Arsenijs<***@yandex.ru>
Apparently from: arm-netbook-***@lists.phcomp.co.uk
To: Eco-Conscious Computing <arm-***@lists.phcomp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [Arm-netbook] asus eeepc 7inch, modifying it to accept a pc card
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2018 23:40:08 +0200
Post by Pičugins Arsenijs
It seems to have a wide tip, so I'm wondering if it's suitable for soldering things like a 0.8-pitch connector...
It has a swappable solder iron head. The solder iron
head I have looks like a screwdriver. It is about
3mm wide. I have bought another solder iron
head. Shaped like a pencil.
Post by Pičugins Arsenijs
The pocketchip's keyboard, just like the EEE PC keyboard, is not I2C by itself
I understand now. A controller is required. For i2c or usb.
Post by Pičugins Arsenijs
I have an LCD panel that may work for
you
I think the plan is to use the display the computer came
with. I would want to know which display model it is
I have. I have refrained from dismantling the
display part because it was already difficult to
remove the mainboard. The cabinet got some nicks.
Post by Pičugins Arsenijs
checked Taobao and a PCMCIA socket there
Can you write a link?
Post by Pičugins Arsenijs
I find the idea to turn an asus eeepc 7inch notebook into an EOMA68
housing very interesting
Yes, that should have been the email's subject but we are not starting
a new post because of that.
Post by Pičugins Arsenijs
http://lists.phcomp.co.uk/mailman/listinfo/arm-netbook
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Christopher Havel
2018-02-13 18:51:32 UTC
Permalink
If the lid assembly in that netbook is standard, it should be relatively
easy to get into. There will be screws hidden, usually under the rubber
bumpers that prevent scuff marks from appearing on the keyboard/base part
when you close the lid. Take out those screws and run a "spudger" or a
small hobby knife (of the "exacto" variety) around the edge to release
several inevitable sets of catches. The bezel should come right off.

You will likely have to then remove more screws to remove the LCD panel
proper, as the information you want is on its back. Be careful with cables
-- they are typically a little fragile -- and your netbook is old enough
that repair parts sources on eBay are starting to dwindle...
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Ricardo Wurmus
2018-02-15 08:55:27 UTC
Permalink
Post by r***@Safe-mail.net
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: [Arm-netbook] asus eeepc 7inch, modifying it to accept a pc card
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2018 23:40:08 +0200
Post by Pičugins Arsenijs
It seems to have a wide tip, so I'm wondering if it's suitable for soldering things like a 0.8-pitch connector...
It has a swappable solder iron head. The solder iron
head I have looks like a screwdriver. It is about
3mm wide. I have bought another solder iron
head. Shaped like a pencil.
I suggest a wide, flat solder iron tip and lots of flux
(e.g. “Loethonig”). 0.8-pitch gets easier to solder with a technique
called drag soldering. You bathe the connector in thick flux, then
apply solder to the flat solder iron head, then slowly drag the solder
ball across all contacts.

The flux prevents the solder ball from fusing adjacent pins.

I really recommend this over a sharp, thin-tipped solder head for narrow
pitches.

--
Ricardo

GPG: BCA6 89B6 3655 3801 C3C6 2150 197A 5888 235F ACAC
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Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton
2018-02-15 09:48:48 UTC
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Post by Ricardo Wurmus
I suggest a wide, flat solder iron tip and lots of flux
(e.g. “Loethonig”). 0.8-pitch gets easier to solder with a technique
called drag soldering. You bathe the connector in thick flux, then
apply solder to the flat solder iron head, then slowly drag the solder
ball across all contacts.
The flux prevents the solder ball from fusing adjacent pins.
I really recommend this over a sharp, thin-tipped solder head for narrow
pitches.
cool, thanks ricardo. does anyone else have any recommended
techniques? there's a huge range of experience on this list.

l.

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