[Arm-netbook] Project status / 3D printing of resin cases?

[Vincent]

Dear all,

I'm a little bit worried since there has been no status update for
quite a while and little to no activity on this mailing list for over 2
weeks. I started working on my own PCMCIA EOMA68 module and still rely
on the 3D-printed case and everything related to it (e.g., power
supply).

In general, any news would be highly appreciated. In particular, I
would like to know how the 3D-printed cases are making progress. I saw
some development towards a custom 3D-printer and what appears to be PLA
printing attempts. Since I ordered a resin-based case (+$150), what is
the status here?

Many thanks in advance,
Vincent



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[David Niklas]

On Mon, 13 Aug 2018 23:20:19 +0200

Post by Vincent
Dear all,
I'm a little bit worried since there has been no status update for
quite a while and little to no activity on this mailing list for over 2
weeks.

<snip>

Post by Vincent
any news would be highly appreciated.

<snip>

Luke has been sooo busy he has been postponing his prolific posting
habits (replying to me too).
Expect nothing more from luke than something short that only somewhat
answers the question that you were asking. This is just his situation.

As for my status, (since you did ask why the ML was silent), I'm hand
soldering an eDP connector. It is going poorly as the pins are so small
that I had to buy a set of 20x mag glasses. These arrived 2 weeks late
and bent, today. They do not fit either. They are too small. Augh. If
that was not bad enough they have to be within 1/2 inch in order to
focus. How am I supposed to work with that?
Furthermore, the pins cannot be desoldered because the plastic connector
becomes too hot and the pins fall out. I tried a low temp and then a high
temp to shock the solder off with the same result.
True, I could special order a 30pin eDP connector, but why spend $70 on a
screen and then $50-$140 on a cable (alibaba est.), without shipping
included?!
I also bought a soldering stand, but it would not hold my very small
pieces stable so I tightened the nut and the metal bent!
I am tired of the stupid designs people keep inventing for inventors, so
I bought a 6 arm plastic work piece holder. It works well, but heaven
help me if I have to buy a replacement arm. They are so expensive (as
was the the 6 arm work piece holder)!
While I am working on the connector I decided to buy an adapter to
connect the HDMI output of my SBC to a spare VGA panel. It has been a
10 days (6 business), since I ordered it and it still has not shipped...

Well, I am upset at my circumstances but at least I am learning, right? I
think I'll try using some solder paste and or a heat shrink in between
the pins to prevent myself from cross soldering them.

What I really need is to figure out, "What dissolves Rosin flux?" I tried
acetone (aka. nail polish remover), dish soap, turpentine (aka. paint
thinner), plain soap, and alcohol without effect. All the above were
recommended online by a verity of clueless loosers.

Sincerely,
David

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[Christopher Havel]

@David -- I assume with your HDMI adapter, you're dealing with Chinese eBay
sellers. I find that you have to nag them (three times!) about everything
in order to get anything done. It's usually after the third nearly
identical message that they figure out that you actually want them to get
off their duff and do something useful... I really don't understand why
they're like that -- it's like they care only about the money they're
getting, and that whether or not they actually ship product is a secondary
concern (let alone what condition it is in once it arrives...).

I can actually recommend one particular seller -- they deal with driver
boards for eg laptop LCDs, I got one for a Dell e6400 lid assembly from
them -- they are under the eBay handle "ruohan666". They were extremely
good, and when there was a problem (I /really/ should have removed that
obviously spurious blob of solder before applying power to the kit!) they
sent me a whole replacement kit, and did so rather speedily. But behavior
like theirs is sadly the exception (and a grand one at that), rather than
the rule.

Also, I feel your pain with the DP connector -- I have a project I keep
putting off because I don't think I can manage the 0.4mm pitch Hirose-clone
connector involved. It turns out that the LCD in my mother's deceased Nexus
7 tablet has *almost* the same timings as that e6400 LCD, and I have the
LVDS connector's pinout and a spare driver board. I don't need the inverter
board because driving the backlight is as simple as wiring up 5v and a 100k
pot. The two panels may or may not in fact be compatible -- I'd love to
find out -- but that damned connector stuffs two rows of fifteen pins into
a 3/8" long space... I'm pretty decent with the ol' iron, but I don't think
I'm *that* good.

For the record, the two timings that are out of spec on the Nexus 7 LCD are
the front and back porches.

...and, as an aside -- if anyone wants to make a cable for my connector
(it's Panasonic's AXT530124; Digikey has it; email me and I'll send you a
picture of the pinout needed) and a cable for David, I'm sure we both will
be eternally grateful. Depending on the time of the month, I may be able to
Paypal a small amount ($10 or so) to help with expenses... I'm in North
Carolina, USA, for shipping purposes.
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[Ricardo Wurmus]

Hi David Niklas,

Post by David Niklas
As for my status, (since you did ask why the ML was silent), I'm hand
soldering an eDP connector. It is going poorly as the pins are so small
that I had to buy a set of 20x mag glasses.

Have you tried drag soldering? You would coat the pins and pads in
thick flux paste and drag a small ball of solder with a large chisel tip
iron across the pins. Any unwanted bridges can be destroyed by heating
them shortly.

--
Ricardo


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[David Niklas]

On Wed, 15 Aug 2018 12:56:36 +0200

Post by Ricardo Wurmus
Hi David Niklas,

Post by David Niklas
As for my status, (since you did ask why the ML was silent), I'm hand
soldering an eDP connector. It is going poorly as the pins are so
small that I had to buy a set of 20x mag glasses.

Have you tried drag soldering? You would coat the pins and pads in
thick flux paste and drag a small ball of solder with a large chisel tip
iron across the pins. Any unwanted bridges can be destroyed by heating
them shortly.

I've heard of that but all the youtube vids I could find were about PCB -
with pre-applied-solder in the pins (and those were the guys who are
soldering in a manner that is non-conducive to their immanent demise...)
If you could direct me I would appreciate it.

Thanks,
David

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[David Niklas]

On Wed, 15 Aug 2018 12:56:36 +0200

Post by Ricardo Wurmus
Hi David Niklas,

Post by David Niklas
As for my status, (since you did ask why the ML was silent), I'm hand
soldering an eDP connector. It is going poorly as the pins are so
small that I had to buy a set of 20x mag glasses.

Have you tried drag soldering? You would coat the pins and pads in
thick flux paste and drag a small ball of solder with a large chisel tip
iron across the pins. Any unwanted bridges can be destroyed by heating
them shortly.
--
Ricardo

I wanted to say that I asked for a video not because I do not understand
what you are saying but because I understand that I don't know everything
and a video of the technique would allow me to see and repeat.
I am going to try to find a video on my own since you do not seem to know
of a good one.

Thanks,
David

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[Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton]

---
crowd-funded eco-conscious hardware: https://www.crowdsupply.com/eoma68

Post by Vincent
Dear all,
I'm a little bit worried since there has been no status update for
quite a while and little to no activity on this mailing list for over 2
weeks.

i'm very busy.

Post by Vincent
In general, any news would be highly appreciated. In particular, I
would like to know how the 3D-printed cases are making progress. I saw
some development towards a custom 3D-printer and what appears to be PLA
printing attempts. Since I ordered a resin-based case (+$150), what is
the status here?

resin i learned is too brittle, i didn't know that. the laptop will
be at least a year as explained previously several times.

l.

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