[Arm-netbook] first prototype microdesktop casework

[d***@mail.com]

I apologize for DOS'ing the list, I can only get online about once a week.

On Sat, 29 Apr 2017 12:42:29 +0100

On Sat, Apr 29, 2017 at 6:08 AM, Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton

http://rhombus-tech.net/community_ideas/micro_desktop/news/

ok, ouch, onto the fourth revision of the corner-pieces already, and
some minor changes to the plywood are needed as well. this really
would have been awkward if someone else did it.
the anycubic 3d printer is holding up well. the higher-quality PLA
from the company i found on aliexpress seems reasonable so far (the
"standard" quality definitely isn't: it literally crumbles under
pressure).

<snip>

Luke, (I can call you Luke, since you sign your name that way, right?)
PLA stands for Poly-Lactic-Acid and if they are selling you something
else you can complain, if not sue for false advertising. That's why we
label things, so that we know what they are, right? So one PLA aught to
be the same as any other. Aluminum is aluminum, titanium is titanium, why
is PLA not PLA?

I own a Reach3D printer. It's an all aluminum housing and z axis gear
printer. I'm still in the construction phase, but if me and my caliper
(it's auto-calibrating but I want it perfect :) work well together then I
should be printing sometime around the 21st. I could help you with my
printer at limited expense (unless something big happens in my life :)

Also, I bought on Amazon 2 spools of PLA and one of PC. The PLA cost ~$20
per KG while the PC was ~$30. It seems to me that you might be better off
with PC if finding a good PLA supplier and making a case that is not
flimsy with PLA is such a problem.

Sincerely,
David

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[Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton]

Post by d***@mail.com
I apologize for DOS'ing the list, I can only get online about once a week.
On Sat, 29 Apr 2017 12:42:29 +0100

On Sat, Apr 29, 2017 at 6:08 AM, Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton

http://rhombus-tech.net/community_ideas/micro_desktop/news/

ok, ouch, onto the fourth revision of the corner-pieces already, and
some minor changes to the plywood are needed as well. this really
would have been awkward if someone else did it.
the anycubic 3d printer is holding up well. the higher-quality PLA
from the company i found on aliexpress seems reasonable so far (the
"standard" quality definitely isn't: it literally crumbles under
pressure).

<snip>
Luke, (I can call you Luke, since you sign your name that way, right?)
PLA stands for Poly-Lactic-Acid and if they are selling you something
else you can complain, if not sue for false advertising. That's why we
label things, so that we know what they are, right? So one PLA aught to
be the same as any other. Aluminum is aluminum, titanium is titanium, why
is PLA not PLA?

it's partly down to where the lactic acid comes from: like any
chemistry you get a different yield and a totally different
composition depending on the process, the purity and the ingredients.

most companies use corn for the raw materials, and they don't process
(purify) it properly. the result is that the PLA gives off acrid
fumes, deforms under pressure, does not adhere properly (to itself...
which is kinda important) and is generally completely fucking useless
for well... everything to do with 3D printing.

Post by d***@mail.com
I own a Reach3D printer. It's an all aluminum housing and z axis gear
printer. I'm still in the construction phase, but if me and my caliper
(it's auto-calibrating but I want it perfect :) work well together then I
should be printing sometime around the 21st. I could help you with my
printer at limited expense (unless something big happens in my life :)

:)

Post by d***@mail.com
Also, I bought on Amazon 2 spools of PLA and one of PC. The PLA cost ~$20
per KG while the PC was ~$30.

ok, i'd like you to do a test. take a small piece about 5cm long and
bend it very very fast, as quickly as you can, making the loop as
small as you can (8mm or less if you can).

good PLA will snap.

shit-quality PLA will discolour, going light-coloured.

another test - a really really important one - is to make a long
rectangle (35mm high x 5mm x 10mm would probably do) - the height is
important - then clamp one end to a desk. on the other end suspend a
weight tied with string as close to the end as possible. make the
weight... let's say.... 0.5kg or so. not very much. now leave it for
a month.

good quality PLA will be ok, and when you take the weight off the
shape will be retained

shit quality PLA will snap any time within hours to weeks, and when
you take the weight off you'll find it's bent.

that amazon PLA you bought i can guarantee will be shit quality.

Post by d***@mail.com
It seems to me that you might be better off
with PC if finding a good PLA supplier and making a case that is not
flimsy with PLA is such a problem.

faberdashery's PLA is extremely strong. it actually has better
rigidity than PETG. PC requires a higher temperature and has less
available colours as it's not so common for 3D printing.

l.

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[Luke Kenneth Casson Leighton]

Post by d***@mail.com
I own a Reach3D printer. It's an all aluminum housing and z axis gear
printer. I'm still in the construction phase, but if me and my caliper
(it's auto-calibrating but I want it perfect :) work well together then I
should be printing sometime around the 21st. I could help you with my
printer at limited expense (unless something big happens in my life :)

one piece of advice: buy some printbite, stick it to the aluminium
plate (after cleaning it - do follow PRECISELY the instructions for
printbite installation). better, get a MK3 (aluminium) bed plate,
because having a MK2 not in full contact with the aluminium is a pain
(uneven heat distribution and transfer). i've currently stacked some
cardboard underneath to make the MK2 stop bowing downwards...
*sigh*...

printbite will stop a world of pain in both making prints stick and
also getting them off. but *read and follow the instructions*.

l.

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